This Year’s Buying Trip to the Village and Mucho Mas

by Susan­na Starr

Hav­ing just returned from a vis­it to the weav­ing vil­lage, the images are strong in my mind. For some time my fam­i­ly of three grown chil­dren have been talk­ing about get­ting togeth­er in Oax­a­ca when we did our next buy­ing trip. Although they’ve come down to the weav­ing vil­lage indi­vid­u­al­ly as chil­dren and young adults for many decades, this was the first time they came down togeth­er. At this point in their lives, work and time are dif­fi­cult to come by, so we start­ed mak­ing arrange­ments, sched­ul­ing the vis­it and not­ing it into their cal­en­dars, many months pri­or to the antic­i­pat­ed trip.

Amy, Roy and Mirabai in front of Tlamanalli Restaurant
Amy, Roy and Mirabai in front of Tla­manal­li Restaurant

Our Interwoven Lives with the Zapotec Weavers: An Odyssey of Love

The Zapotec Indi­an cul­ture is a rich one, with many thou­sands of years of endur­ing tra­di­tions. Of all the tra­di­tions, fam­i­ly is prob­a­bly the most impor­tant of the under­ly­ing struc­ture of this ancient cul­ture. My part­ner, John Lamkin, and I had recent­ly pub­lished a beau­ti­ful book called Our Inter­wo­ven Lives with the Zapotec Weavers: An Odyssey of Love (sales@Starr-Interiors.com) which tells the sto­ry of my more than forty years of work­ing with the same fam­i­lies in the vil­lage. John’s beau­ti­ful pho­tographs accom­pa­ny that jour­ney. In it, I trace three gen­er­a­tions of fam­i­lies that I’ve been so close to, as well as pho­tographs of oth­er weavers I’ve been work­ing with, espe­cial­ly on the Line of the Spir­it™, a spe­cial design­er col­lec­tion that has been an impor­tant part of what we do for more than twen­ty-five years.

Roy enjoying tortilla fresh from the comal Rosario, husband Faustino, Amy, Roy and Mirabai.
Roy enjoy­ing tor­tilla fresh from the comal
Rosario, hus­band Fausti­no, Amy, Roy and Mirabai.

Hav­ing Mirabai, Amy and Roy accom­pa­ny­ing us to vis­it each of the weav­ing fam­i­lies was not only impor­tant to the fam­i­lies, but to our fam­i­ly as well. When Roy and Rosario Men­doza met again,  thir­ty years had passed since they both were liv­ing in the Men­doza house in Oax­a­ca. but there was no prob­lem in rec­og­niz­ing each oth­er. Mirabai and Amy were down more recent­ly, some­times with their own chil­dren, but now there were not just two gen­er­a­tions, but three. As close as I am to the orig­i­nal fam­i­lies and their grown chil­dren, it’s this third gen­er­a­tion, the same age as my own grand­chil­dren, that are mov­ing beyond the life they were born into, while still hon­or­ing and prac­tic­ing the cul­tur­al val­ues that have con­tin­ued for so many gen­er­a­tions before them.

Armando in front of special "Tree of Life" which we purchased
Arman­do in front of spe­cial “Tree of Life” which we purchased

Now, through the hard work of their grand­par­ents and par­ents, they have been afford­ed edu­ca­tion­al oppor­tu­ni­ties nev­er before avail­able to pre­ced­ing gen­er­a­tions. Although many of the young peo­ple of this age are still weav­ing, those who have been giv­en the oppor­tu­ni­ties to study at uni­ver­si­ties are con­tin­u­ing on to become doc­tors, den­tists, and study­ing for oth­er professions.

I feel as proud of their accom­plish­ments as I do those of my own grand­chil­dren. The ties we have are strong ones and hav­ing our fam­i­lies togeth­er dur­ing this time was evi­dence of the warmth and friend­ship that goes far beyond just a work­ing rela­tion­ship. Liv­ing in the vil­lage, wak­ing up to the sounds, vis­it­ing the mar­ket to buy our flow­ers and fresh pro­duce, vis­it­ing the fam­i­lies we work with, hav­ing lunch at El Des­can­so and at Tier­ra Antigua with the Montaño fam­i­lies was joyful…and memorable.

The Montaños at El Descanso
The Mon­taños at El Descanso

Also mem­o­rable, was the evening we spent at the home of our good friends, Flo­renti­no and Eloisa Gutier­rez. Their son, Juan Cristo­bal, who stud­ied audio engi­neer­ing in Cal­i­for­nia, has put togeth­er a band and at Mirabai’s urg­ing, decid­ed to per­form a con­cert for us. It was held in their spa­cious court­yard, with lux­u­ri­ant flow­ers and plants pro­vid­ing the per­fect back­drop for the con­cert. And, the younger Fidel Mon­taño was the lead singer. Writ­ing their own music and lyrics and accom­pa­nied by a few oth­er mem­bers of the band, the con­cert was outstanding.

Juan Cristobal, Fidel and their band, Km 1
Juan Cristo­bal, Fidel and their band, Km 1
Roy holding Alta's grandson Pablito
Roy hold­ing Alta’s grand­son Pablito

We spent impor­tant time with Alta Gra­cia, the dye­mak­er for Line of the Spir­it™ since its incep­tion and with her son Jaci and his wife Soledad. We vis­it­ed with the wife of Felipe Lazaro who passed away recent­ly and bought some of her spe­cial­ties of roast­ed pump­kin seed bars, ama­ranth bars and light wafers and exchanged warm embraces. We vis­it­ed with Maria and Eloisa Bautista whose recent­ly mar­ried son, Jacobo now is fol­low­ing in the foot­steps of his par­ents who have been part of the Line of the Spir­it™ team since it began, more than twen­ty-five years ago when he was just a baby. Our fam­i­ly meet­ing with Jovi­ta and her broth­er, Valenti­no and his wife, was affir­ma­tion of the ongo­ing rela­tion­ship of our fam­i­lies, as it was with all the Line of the Spir­it™ weavers.

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Maria & Eliseo Bautista with Susanna and Jazi
Maria & Eliseo Bautista with Susan­na and Jacinto

Hav­ing lunch at Tla­manal­li, the acclaimed restau­rant of world-famous chef, Abi­gail Men­doza, and her sis­ters, was anoth­er spe­cial event. In the kitchen, we cried togeth­er with their moth­er, Dona Clara, who lost her son Arnul­fo, one of the most tal­ent­ed artists the vil­lage has ever known and one of our close friends. In the beau­ti­ful patio, we enjoyed some of their famous dish­es at the tra­di­tion­al­ly dec­o­rat­ed tables. The embraces we exchanged were heartfelt.

Our family with wife of recently deceased weaver Felipe Lazaro
Our fam­i­ly with wife of recent­ly deceased weaver Felipe Lazaro
Our family looks on as art director, Jacinto Morales, discusses technical aspect with Juan Luis and his wife Paula
Our fam­i­ly looks on as art direc­tor, Jac­in­to Morales, dis­cuss­es tech­ni­cal aspect with Juan Luis and his wife Paula

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, this was a mem­o­rable vis­it, a tes­ti­mo­ny to what busi­ness can real­ly bring as its reward. We have all pros­pered and its always a joy to see how the entire vil­lage has also pros­pered over these decades. But, always, its the per­son­al rela­tion­ships, the warmth and gen­uine car­ing, the being part of an extend­ed fam­i­ly that is the real bonus. This is as much a part of our con­nec­tion as any­thing else that we con­tin­ue to be involved in togeth­er. The weav­ings they pro­duce and that we sell to our clients who pro­vide a home for them where they will be enjoyed and appre­ci­at­ed com­pletes the cir­cle. But the heart con­nec­tion is what can­not be seen, just felt, and what endures.

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The year’s activities at Starr Interiors

by Susan­na Starr

Begin­ning a new year always gives us the chance to look at the past one. Ours at Starr Inte­ri­ors was a spe­cial one. We cel­e­brat­ed, all year long, our 40th anniver­sary. Where did the time go? Rather than try­ing to recon­struct the decades, our book com­mem­o­rat­ing the jour­ney was pub­lished and is now being dis­trib­uted. Reviews are still com­ing in and you’ll find the lat­est one below. I think it says it all.

There were a num­ber of events includ­ing the book sign­ing that took place in May at Starr Inte­ri­ors, in June at Moby Dick­ens in Taos and in Novem­ber at Barnes & Noble in Albu­querque NM. There were also mag­a­zine arti­cles and news­pa­per fea­ture sto­ries. All in all it was def­i­nite­ly a cel­e­bra­to­ry year.

Book signing and photo show room
Book sign­ing and pho­to show room

Many thanks are due to Leah Sobol for her job as gallery direc­tor. If every­one were to feel about their work as she does the world would be a bet­ter place. In addi­tion to her strong sense of respon­si­bil­i­ty and com­mit­ment, she main­tains the high­est stan­dard of keep­ing the gallery main­tained to pro­vide the kind of ele­gant pre­sen­ta­tion the rugs deserve. Not only is her abil­i­ty as a man­ag­er always in evi­dence, but her heart involve­ment is as well. She is there to make sure every­thing runs smooth­ly, helps clients with their needs and pro­vides indi­vid­ual con­sul­ta­tions to ensure that client’s unique needs are specif­i­cal­ly met. We are for­tu­nate indeed that our team includes her impor­tant and ongo­ing con­tri­bu­tion and concern.

Front cover
Front cov­er

Thanks to Susan Mont­gomery for the won­der­ful review of our new book, Our Inter­wo­ven Lives with the Zapotec Weavers: an Odyssey of the Heart . The review is pub­lished in entire­ty below. Susan’s web­site can be seen here.

 

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Two Cultures, One Spirit:  A Book Review

by Susan Montgomery

Our Inter­wo­ven Lives with the Zapotec Weavers is beau­ti­ful mem­oir of lives and fam­i­lies from com­plete­ly dif­fer­ent cul­tures that have inter­twined and enriched each oth­er for sev­er­al decades. The dif­fer­ences and par­al­lels are elo­quent­ly expressed by author, Susan­na Starr, and pho­tog­ra­ph­er, John Lamkin.

Susan­na writes about her life as an artist and gallery own­er in Taos, New Mex­i­co, but she pri­mar­i­ly focus­es on her deep con­nec­tions with Zapotec weavers in the small vil­lage of Teoti­t­lan del Valle locat­ed about 20 miles from the city of Oax­a­ca in the foothills of the Sier­ra Juarez moun­tains in Mex­i­co. The Zapotec peo­ple are the descen­dants of an ancient civ­i­liza­tion that is indige­nous to the Oax­a­ca region. In this remote vil­lage, many gen­er­a­tions of fam­i­lies have been pro­duc­ing intri­cate­ly designed, hand-woven rugs that are unique to their cre­ators and their locale. Their mate­ri­als come from the world they live in with wool pro­duced by local sheep and yarn made local­ly with dyed, vivid pig­ments. Each rug is a work of art, reflect­ing both tra­di­tion­al and more mod­ern, inno­v­a­tive designs.

After nav­i­gat­ing moun­tain­ous dirt roads to find this vil­lage in the 1970s, Susan­na Starr was so entranced with the weav­ing com­mu­ni­ty she found that she kept going back and even estab­lished her own sec­ond home in the area. She devel­oped a mutu­al­ly ben­e­fi­cial busi­ness rela­tion­ship with the Zapotec weavers, pur­chas­ing their rugs and tak­ing them back to Taos to sell in her shop. But her rela­tion­ship with the weavers became much more than business.

Susan­na shared in their lives as their fam­i­lies grew and adapt­ed to chang­ing times. The book is rough­ly divid­ed into her rela­tion­ships with three gen­er­a­tions of weavers—the par­ents (now grand­par­ents) who are about Susanna’s age, their chil­dren who grad­u­al­ly took over the weav­ing busi­ness from their par­ents, and now the grand­chil­dren, some of whom are becom­ing tal­ent­ed weavers them­selves and oth­ers who are spread­ing their wings as they pur­sue edu­ca­tion and careers.  But the beau­ty of this sto­ry is the close­ness of these fam­i­lies, because wher­ev­er these chil­dren go they retain the cul­tur­al val­ues and tra­di­tions of their com­mu­ni­ty. In spir­it and soul, they will always be part of their Zapotec vil­lage.  Through­out the book, Susan­na dis­cuss­es her own fam­i­ly and the dif­fer­ences and sim­i­lar­i­ties she sees as her chil­dren, like the Zapotec chil­dren, grow and move into adulthood. 

In many ways, this is a trav­el book because the read­er is trans­port­ed to a small Mex­i­can vil­lage and soon feels immersed in this warm and col­or­ful com­mu­ni­ty. It is a book about place, fam­i­ly, cul­ture, tra­di­tions, and hope for the future. We are intro­duced to mul­ti­ple gen­er­a­tions in sev­er­al fam­i­lies and we fin­ish the book feel­ing as if we know them and would love to meet them too.

John Lamkin’s col­or­ful, per­cep­tive pho­tos bring Susanna’s sto­ries visu­al­ly alive. We are able to not only see the beau­ti­ful rugs but to study the fas­ci­nat­ing faces of the weavers and their fam­i­lies as they grow up and grow old­er, cel­e­brat­ing both dai­ly life and the many tra­di­tion­al fes­ti­vals that are so much a part of their culture.

This is a book you will want to read and think about over time. It is a book that will be at home on your cof­fee table or on your bed­side night stand.  I know I would like to share this book with my fam­i­ly and friends, not only because of its unique sto­ry about cre­at­ing art through gen­er­a­tions but because it tells a sto­ry of how we are all more alike than we are dif­fer­ent, about how the spir­it in peo­ple can tran­scend cul­tures and gen­er­a­tions, and about how our cul­tur­al val­ues make us who we are.  It is so appro­pri­ate that the sub­ti­tle of this book is “An Odyssey of the Heart.”

This book can be pur­chased for approx­i­mate­ly $20 in paper­back or $30 hard­bound from Ama­zon or ordered from Cyn­thia at Palo­ma Blan­ca Press (PalomaBlanca.Cynthia@gmail.com). It is also avail­able through your local book­stores or any oth­er online bookstores.

Susan­na Starr is an entre­pre­neur, pho­tog­ra­ph­er, speak­er, artist, and own­er of Starr Inte­ri­ors in Taos.  She is also own­er, design­er and direc­tor of the acclaimed design­er weav­ing col­lec­tion, “Line of the Spir­it,” whose found­ing and devel­op­ment is described in her book.  Susanna’s arti­cles have appeared in many pub­li­ca­tions and she is a mem­ber of the Inter­na­tion­al Food, Wine & Trav­el Writ­ers Asso­ci­a­tion. Her web­site is www.SusannaStarr.com.

John Lamkin is an award-win­ning jour­nal­ist and pho­tog­ra­ph­er who is also based in Taos. He is a con­tribut­ing writer and pho­tog­ra­ph­er for many pub­li­ca­tions and a board mem­ber of the Inter­na­tion­al Food, Wine & Trav­el Writ­ers Asso­ci­a­tion. His web­site is www.TravelWritingAndPhotography.com.

Pho­tographs by John Lamkin.

Forty Years! And a visit to the weaving village

Starr's 40th

 

by Susan­na Starr

As I sit here in our home over­look­ing the Hon­do Val­ley  out­side of Taos, New Mex­i­co, with the back­drop of the San­gre de Cristos moun­tains alter­nate­ly shroud­ed in cloud cov­er, I real­ize that I’ve only been home from our annu­al three and a half month stay in Mex­i­co for a cou­ple of weeks.

Just lit­tle more than two weeks ago we were walk­ing the streets of the weav­ing vil­lage where I’ve been work­ing with the same weav­ing fam­i­lies for so many years. As always, it was won­der­ful being there, vis­it­ing with our old friends, who are real­ly the clos­est I have to extend­ed fam­i­ly, and see­ing all the changes in the year since our last visit.

This time John and I arrived with copies of our recent­ly pub­lished book “Our Inter­wo­ven Lives with the Zapotec Weavers: An Odyssey of the Heart” the beau­ti­ful mini-cof­fee table book that my part­ner, John Lamkin, and I col­lab­o­rat­ed on, with my sto­ry and his beau­ti­ful pho­to­graph­ic accompaniment.

 

Susanna shows the book to Eliseo & Maria Bautista
Susan­na shows the book to Eliseo & Maria Bautista

In this day of imme­di­ate elec­tron­ic com­mu­ni­ca­tion, it wasn’t quite the sur­prise we thought it would be since it had already made it’s advance announce­ment on Face­book. But not every­one had heard about it, espe­cial­ly not the Line of the Spir­it weavers. But every­one seemed to be delight­ed with it. Many of the pho­tos brought hap­py smiles of recog­ni­tion but most impor­tant­ly, it was that spe­cial shared feel­ing of know­ing each oth­er, our fam­i­lies and the vil­lage itself over these many years that was so meaningful.

Juan Luis & family
Juan Luis & family

This new book of ours tells the sto­ry not only of my forty years of work­ing with the Zapotec weavers in this vil­lage, but par­al­lels their lives with my own, of the three gen­er­a­tions I’ve been involved with, my own being the first gen­er­a­tion, the chil­dren who are now adults and run­ning the estab­lished busi­ness­es begun by their par­ents, as the sec­ond gen­er­a­tion. All of these fam­i­lies have been and always will be a sig­nif­i­cant part of my life.
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But it’s the third gen­er­a­tion that real­ly excites me, the gen­er­a­tion of my own grand­chil­dren. These younger peo­ple who have already start­ed in on careers of their own such as med­i­cine, or are now at uni­ver­si­ties study­ing engi­neer­ing and inter­na­tion­al com­merce or attend­ing high schools in Oax­a­ca prepar­ing them for unknown pur­suits, are astound­ing. Their grand­par­ents, my old­est friends, were the tran­si­tion­al age, the one that rep­re­sent­ed the shift from the tra­di­tion­al ways of their par­ents and grand­par­ents to being immersed in the con­tem­po­rary world that includ­ed me and a num­ber of oth­er “com­pradores” (buy­ers) like me.

Weavers and Compradores
Weavers and Compradores

They passed the torch to the next gen­er­a­tion who con­tin­ued to build their busi­ness­es and their homes and pro­vide new oppor­tu­ni­ties for advanced edu­ca­tion to their own chil­dren, often shut­tling them back and forth to spe­cial­ized schools in Oax­a­ca on a dai­ly basis, for years, to pro­vide them with the foun­da­tion for cre­at­ing an alter­na­tive to the weav­ing tra­di­tion they had grown up in, to give them oppor­tu­ni­ties to forge their own way and often bring back new skills to the community.

Although these “kids” look like teenagers any­where in the same kind of jeans, tee shirts and sneak­ers with the same cell phones, there is some­thing spe­cial about them. Although very much a part of the 21st cen­tu­ry, they are still deeply steeped in more than 5,000 years of Zapotec cul­ture and tra­di­tion. They have nev­er suf­fered the west­ern “angst” won­der­ing who they are or what their place is. They have always known what their place was and con­tin­ues to be. From the time of their arrival they have been embraced by the strong ties of fam­i­ly and com­mu­ni­ty. They prob­a­bly go through many of the same thoughts and feel­ings of con­tem­po­raries any­where, but they are not lost. They step out into the world joy­ful­ly. And……every one of them that I know is beau­ti­ful, male or female. Every one of them is infused with lov­ing­ness. I know I must be get­ting old when I look at them and feel the tears in my eyes!

Diego Montaño and one of his rugs
Diego Mon­taño and one of his rugs

But not all of these young peo­ple are going on to pur­sue new careers. Many of them have opt­ed to con­tin­ue in the weav­ing tra­di­tion, already being fine weavers in their own right. And many more look for­ward to work­ing at home on the looms that have defined the life of their vil­lage, enjoy­ing the famil­iar tra­di­tion they choose to con­tin­ue, adding new ideas and visions to those they’ve already been exposed to.

Over these past forty years, we’ve spent so much time in the excit­ing city of Oax­a­ca, rich in its cul­ture, vibrant in its col­ors and rich in its cook­ing tra­di­tion (Oax­a­can chefs are some of the most famous in Mex­i­co as well as some from the vil­lage who have received inter­na­tion­al recog­ni­tion) and excit­ing in its atmos­phere. It’s still the excit­ing city it’s always been. But, this time John and I stayed out in the vil­lage with our friends and I still bask in the glow of being there.

Rather than shut­tling back and forth from the city, we enjoyed the qui­et and inti­ma­cy of being in the vil­lage, of walk­ing out at night and say­ing hel­lo to the neigh­bors, of strolling down the main street and not­ing all the new con­struc­tion and remod­el­ing and upgrad­ing that seems to be tak­ing place on every oth­er cor­ner. Many of the old dirt roads have been paved, street lamps light the way and won­der­ful slo­gans urg­ing peo­ple toward think­ing about recy­cling, mutu­al respect for gen­der, women’s rights and oth­er social issues, are writ­ten with artis­tic accom­pa­ni­ments on the walls. The sense of com­mu­ni­ty is pervasive.

There’s so much more to tell about, but I’ll save it for the next install­ment. Right now I can only cel­e­brate still again the rich­ness that has been part of my life through my con­nec­tion with the weav­ing fam­i­lies of this vil­lage. The time has come for me to close this chap­ter of my life, at least the gallery part of it, Starr Inte­ri­ors. I’ve been pro­cess­ing this time for the past few years and now that it has become clear in my mind that the next step for me is to pass the torch to some­one else that will build upon my rela­tion­ship with the weavers, I feel con­tent­ed. I’m quite sure that the right per­son will appear who will weave their own rela­tion­ships into a mean­ing­ful part of their life, find­ing the coun­ter­part of run­ning the gallery in the equal­ly beau­ti­ful moun­tain town of Taos, New Mexico.

 

Title for our new Zapotec Weavers book

Juan Luis and family at the loom - weaving for Line of the Spirit™
Juan Luis and fam­i­ly at the loom

We have a ten­ta­tive title for the new book by Susan­na Starr, pho­tos by John Lamkin:
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with the Zapotec Weavers:
an odyssey of the heart

Visiting the weaving village and reflecting on three generations

Weaving Village Church   © John Lamkin
Weav­ing Vil­lage Church
© John Lamkin

by Susan­na Starr

Before doing a recap of the year, I want to go back to the last buy­ing trip in Oax­a­ca, in the ear­ly part of the year. As always, vis­it­ing the vil­lage, see­ing all the new and excit­ing weav­ings and, most impor­tant­ly, vis­it­ing old friends, is an ongo­ing joy in my life. This buy­ing trip was excel­lent once again with beau­ti­ful acqui­si­tions from the Mon­taño fam­i­ly, includ­ing the work of Fidel, Pedro and Ali­cia as well as their father, Edmun­do. Vis­it­ing Arman­do and Juan Gutier­rez, sons of Felipe, also pro­vid­ed an abun­dance of new col­ors and designs, as well as warm embraces. And Efren Lazo’s ranges of bright reds are always outstanding.

Diana, Karina and Pedro Montaño © Susanna Starr
Diana, Kari­na and Pedro Mon­taño
© Susan­na Starr

But, at this point in the lives of all my weav­ing friends as well as my own, the most excit­ing thing that’s hap­pen­ing is the third gen­er­a­tion. Edmun­do and Felipe and I go back more than 35 years. Arman­do, Juan, Fidel, Pedro, Ali­cia and Efren were small chil­dren then. Now they’re run­ning the busi­ness­es and their own chil­dren are launched into the world. This gen­er­a­tion has the advan­tage of mak­ing oth­er choic­es. Diego Mon­taño, Pedro and Karina’s son, is pro­duc­ing a line of his own small, deluxe, fine­ly woven pieces, sev­er­al of which are now fea­tured at Starr Inte­ri­ors. But his old­er sis­ter, Diana, has cho­sen a dif­fer­ent career.

We were sit­ting at Pedro and Karina’s new house, restau­rant and show­room enjoy­ing some of her won­der­ful cook­ing, when we saw some­one start up the entry and then veer off to the side. “Oh, that’s Diana,” said Kari­na and called out to her daugh­ter who didn’t want to dis­turb the clients at the restau­rant. Once she heard her moth­er and saw that it was us, she resumed walk­ing in. I was stunned. I’ve known her since she was born 22 years ago and have seen her dur­ing all these years, but all of a sud­den it seemed that I was see­ing some­one new. This tall, beau­ti­ful young woman is now study­ing med­i­cine and was wear­ing her hos­pi­tal “whites.” As I write this, I feel the same emo­tion I had then, which was so very pow­er­ful that my eyes filled with tears. I was so proud and so very hap­py not only for her and her accom­plish­ment, but for her par­ents and, by exten­sion, her grand­par­ents, my friends, Ali­cia and Edmundo.

The sto­ry of each of these fam­i­lies deserves a sep­a­rate telling. They are the core weavers that I’ve been work­ing with for almost four decades, each of whom has been a mean­ing­ful part of my life as well as pro­vid­ing the base for Starr Inte­ri­ors’ col­lec­tion of fine weav­ings. The weavers I start­ed with, my old­est friends from build­ing busi­ness­es togeth­er, are now much less active than they used to be, although still involved as I am. The sec­ond gen­er­a­tion has now tak­en the active roles and the third gen­er­a­tion is explor­ing com­plete­ly new paths of their own. But the tra­di­tion of the vil­lage remains strong and vital with every gen­er­a­tion par­tic­i­pat­ing in fes­ti­vals and spe­cial events which are the life’s blood of the vil­lage. They main­tain the tra­di­tions that go back thou­sands of years with hon­or and respect for their deep­est mean­ing. Zapotec is a lan­guage that con­tin­ues to be used. As they do all this, they are very much a part of the 21st century.

Edmundo Montaño at Ceremony  © John Lamkin
Edmun­do Mon­taño at Cer­e­mo­ny
© John Lamkin

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While we were there, we were priv­i­leged to attend a spe­cial cer­e­mo­ny at the church where Edmun­do was hon­ored as head of the new com­mit­tee. In an ancient cer­e­mo­ny that passed the staff to the new per­son in charge of the gov­ern­ing com­mit­tee, the mean­ing of gov­ern­ing was reaf­firmed. The per­son cho­sen for this task was picked because of his abil­i­ty to add to the guid­ance of the vil­lage in a car­ing way with com­plete ded­i­ca­tion to his office. There is no pay involved. Those who are cho­sen for the com­mit­tee which gov­erns vil­lage mat­ters for a peri­od of sev­er­al years, and espe­cial­ly the head of the com­mit­tee who has received the cer­e­mo­ni­al staff, take their respon­si­bil­i­ties seri­ous­ly and work for the com­mon good of the entire vil­lage, includ­ing pre­serv­ing the cus­toms, tra­di­tions and many cel­e­bra­tions as well as work­ing with the pres­i­dent of the municipality.

Women preparing Tejate   © John Lamkin
Women prepar­ing Tejate
© John Lamkin
Zapotec Musicians at Ceremony  © John Lamkin
Zapotec Musi­cians at Cer­e­mo­ny © John Lamkin

Although it is men who tra­di­tion­al­ly take on this respon­si­bil­i­ty (for thou­sands of years the women have been tak­ing on the respon­si­bil­i­ty of the home and chil­dren), the women have a strong pres­ence in prepar­ing the caul­drons of drink called tejate and the labor inten­sive prepa­ra­tion of tamales . All of them are dressed in their best embroi­dered huip­iles (blous­es) and tra­di­tion­al skirts, while the men wear their tra­di­tion­al straw som­breros. The bands that play the Zapotec music are an impor­tant part of any fes­ti­val or cer­e­mo­ny. Most of them are weavers who are musi­cians as well. Music, like weav­ing, is an impor­tant part of the cul­ture, also devel­oped over thou­sands of years.

Cer­e­monies of this kind are held in the church, a struc­ture built by the Span­ish more than five hun­dred years ago on the remains of what orig­i­nal­ly was a Zapotec tem­ple. For­tu­nate­ly, some of the orig­i­nal work is still to be seen in the arch­es, on the walls, and on parts of the exposed foun­da­tion. The glyphs and geo­met­ric designs of their ances­tors is a reminder to the peo­ple of the vil­lage of their her­itage which they keep alive through their ongo­ing con­tin­u­a­tion of cus­toms. For us, it is a glimpse into the wealth of that heritage.

Susan­na Starr — own­er of Starr Inte­ri­ors, pho­tog­ra­ph­er, speak­er, artist, writer, holds a degree in phi­los­o­phy from Stony Brook State Uni­ver­si­ty of New York.  She lives in North­ern New Mex­i­co. Susan­na is the author of the book: Fifty and Beyond: New Begin­nings in Health and Well-Being pub­lished by Palo­ma Blan­ca Press and is a board mem­ber of the Trav­el Writ­ers Asso­ci­a­tion.

Master Zapotec Indian Weaving Demonstration — the Gutierrez Family

Florentino, Susanna, Eloisa and Hugo
Flo­renti­no, Susan­na Starr (Starr Inte­ri­ors own­er), Eloisa and Hugo
pho­to © John Lamkin

For the past sev­er­al years, dur­ing the acclaimed Taos Wool Fes­ti­val, Eloisa and Flo­renti­no Gutier­rez and Hugo Gon­za­les Gutier­rez have set up a weav­ing demon­stra­tion in the his­toric court­yard of Starr Interiors.

This year, they will be weav­ing from 12 Noon to 4 PM on Octo­ber 6th and 7th, which is the week­end of the Wool Fes­ti­val. It will be a great oppor­tu­ni­ty to meet the weavers, enjoy the Wool Fes­ti­val and the beau­ti­ful ear­ly fall weath­er in Taos, New Mex­i­co at the base of the San­gre de Cristo mountains.

Eloisa Gutierrez
Eloisa Gutier­rez
pho­to: © John Lamkin

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In tune with the Remark­able Women of Taos, the gallery will present Eloisa’s con­tri­bu­tion — a spe­cial col­lec­tion of very fine, intri­cate 2’x3’ weav­ings. She is one of the ear­li­est of women weavers in the vil­lage where, tra­di­tion­al­ly, they have not been work­ing at looms. In this sum­mer of Remark­able Women of Taos, we are pleased to include Eloisa and her fine work.

Hugo’s large “Tree of Life” weav­ings have been pur­chased for a num­ber of col­lec­tions. There are gen­er­al­ly just one or two of these pro­duced each year, since they are time con­sum­ing and dif­fi­cult to make, and are much sought after. The com­plex pat­tern of birds and ani­mals cre­at­ed in a ver­ti­cal for­mat make for a stun­ning wall hang­ing as well as a spe­cial and unique runner.

If you can’t be there in per­son for this event and taste some of the tra­di­tion­al Oax­a­can hot choco­late that Eloisa pre­pares, please check out the web­site to see some of the new pieces they’ll be bring­ing. But if you’re enter­tain­ing the notion of a few days or more to spend “away,” please make sure you stop by on Sat­ur­day and/or Sun­day for this spe­cial year­ly event at Starr Inte­ri­ors.

Recent visit to the weaving village

Village women making 'tejate.' Montaño family
Vil­lage women mak­ing ‘tejate.’ Mon­taño fam­i­ly ©John Lamkin

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Here’s a video we shot while we were vis­it­ing the vil­lage. We were very priv­i­leged to be invit­ed to this cel­e­bra­tion by one of our weavers.
More to come on this vis­it soon.

An April, 2011 Visit to Oaxaca and the Zapotec Weavers – New Developments in the Line of the Spirit™

text and pho­tos by Susan­na Starr

Back to the moun­tains of north­ern New Mex­i­co just in time to expe­ri­ence what we hope is winter’s last fling. The snow is still on the moun­tain tops. 

Laguna Bacalar from Casa Estrella de Bacalar's Terraza ©Susanna Starr
Lagu­na Bacalar from Casa Estrel­la de Bacalar’s Ter­raza ©Susan­na Starr

It’s won­der­ful being home again with fam­i­ly and friends, but the recent vis­it to Oax­a­ca on a buy­ing trip is still imprint­ed on my mem­o­ry. After spend­ing four idyl­lic and very qui­et months at our beau­ti­ful home, Casa Estrel­la de Bacalar, on Lagu­na Bacalar in the south­ern­most part of the Yucatan Penin­su­la of Mex­i­co, it was a real change to be in the city of Oax­a­ca and espe­cial­ly, in the weav­ing village.

Casa de mis Recuerdos, Oaxaca MEXICO
Casa de mis Recuer­dos, Oax­a­ca MEXICO ©Susan­na Starr

Stay­ing at Casa de mis Recuer­dos with our hosts, Con­chi­ta and Moi­ses was a delight. Many years ago they rent­ed us the home in Oax­a­ca we loved so much and that we spent many hap­py months in over a peri­od of many years. We’ve kept our friend­ship going all that time. Being with them is always spe­cial and the beau­ty that they’ve cre­at­ed at their Bed and Break­fast pro­vides a delight­ful retreat from the bus­tle of the city while still in the heart of every­thing. Work­ing out on the patio with Abi, our liai­son of almost twen­ty years, gave us just the pri­va­cy and space to go over all our buy­ing lists and be able to dis­cuss our new weav­ing designs and share our mutu­al excitement.

As always, the high­light of our stay and, of course, our main pur­pose, is being with the weavers. This trip pro­vid­ed us with many new col­ors and designs and, most impor­tant­ly, has launched a shift in our own design­er col­lec­tion, the Line of the Spir­it™. Some years ago, we start­ed a new “co-op” with the core weavers who had been work­ing on the Line of the Spir­it™ for almost twen­ty years.

Co-op Members - Oaxaca Mexico
Co-op Mem­bers — Oax­a­ca Mex­i­co ©Susan­na Starr

Now, we have cement­ed a new work­ing rela­tion­ship where they are tak­ing com­plete respon­si­bil­i­ty for the pro­duc­tion of this spe­cial col­lec­tion and are mak­ing it offi­cial through a gov­ern­ment spon­sored pro­gram designed to help indige­nous peo­ple become more self-suf­fi­cient. It is espe­cial­ly mean­ing­ful to the launch­ing of Dux Tsuni­um, the Zapotec name cho­sen by the weavers in the co-op (in Eng­lish: Our Thing).

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Alta Gracia, Jazi & Abi -- Coop Meeting
Alta Gra­cia, Jazi & Abi — Coop Meet­ing Oax­a­ca MEXICO ©Susan­na Starr

The Line began with Richard Enz­er work­ing with the weavers, then both of us and final­ly just with me. So the pride that they have always tak­en will now be enhanced know­ing that they now have the ulti­mate respon­si­bil­i­ty them­selves. We dis­cussed issues like the qual­i­ty of the hand spun wool and every­one was in total agree­ment that it was the only kind that would be used. There was lots of laugh­ter and obvi­ous joy in launch­ing the work of the “co-oper­a­ti­va.”

Jazi, Co-op Member Oaxaca MEXICO
Jazi, Co-op Mem­ber Oax­a­ca MEXICO ©Susan­na Starr

We cel­e­brat­ed the new begin­ning with great plans for the future where the weavers will not only do the phys­i­cal work of pro­duc­ing each piece on the loom, but secur­ing the dyes and the yarn that result in the beau­ty and integri­ty of their work, going over each indi­vid­ual piece and tak­ing the ulti­mate respon­si­bil­i­ty for cre­at­ing some­thing to be trea­sured by the ulti­mate own­er of each piece signed with our trade­mark logo. Each per­son work­ing on the project left with the gift of a liv­ing plant from our weaver, Alta Gracia’s, vivero (nurs­ery) that will grow and pros­per as they do.

So much more to be said about the trip, includ­ing won­der­ful comi­das (meals) with the fam­i­lies who are some of my clos­est con­nec­tions in Mex­i­co. Being with their chil­dren and grand­chil­dren keeps our con­nec­tion strong. The teenagers are amaz­ing, beau­ti­ful and tal­ent­ed with great plans for their futures. They seem to be out­stand­ing stu­dents and sev­er­al of the old­er ones have already gone on to study spe­cif­ic careers, any­where from med­i­cine to music.

Jovita - Co-op Member Oaxaca MEXICO
Jovi­ta — Co-op Mem­ber Oax­a­ca MEXICO ©Susan­na Starr

In the next post I will share with you some of the changes that are tak­ing place in the vil­lage. And how it all has come about because of the mag­i­cal cir­cle, of pro­duc­ing these beau­ti­ful weav­ings, mar­ket­ing them and ulti­mate­ly of those unknown strangers who buy them, appre­ci­at­ing the unique expres­sion of this art form as an endur­ing part of their home décor.

Line of the Spirit™  Rug on Co-op Loom
Line of the Spir­it™ Rug on Co-op Loom ©Susan­na Starr

Day of the Dead — Dias de los Muertos — Oaxaca, Mexico

Altar, Cemetery Chapel - Day of the Dead - Oaxaca State, Mexico
Susan­na Starr plac­ing pho­to on Altar, Ceme­tery Chapel — Day of the Dead — Oax­a­ca State, Mex­i­co ©John Lamkin 

The Day of the Dead cel­e­bra­tion is marked by var­i­ous rit­u­als, includ­ing the Amer­i­can Hal­loween. But in Oax­a­ca this hol­i­day, known as Los Dias de los Muer­tos, is some­thing that goes far beyond trick or treat­ing and chil­dren in cos­tumes. It is not marked by carved pump­kins and chil­dren gar­ner­ing as much can­dy as can fill their bags.

Rather, it is a holy hol­i­day, one that marks the cel­e­bra­tion of those who have passed away, death being part of life. Fur­ther, it is an hon­or­ing of those who once were part of their lives, a day of remem­brance. It is a day infused with a feel­ing of spir­it. Yes, there are parades, such as the large on in Mit­la with all kinds of flam­boy­ant cos­tumes, and major dec­o­ra­tions in the large ceme­ter­ies, but the most impor­tant acknowl­edg­ment of this holy hol­i­day takes place at the indi­vid­ual altars in each home.

For the Zapotec peo­ple, the altar is the focal point in their home. All dur­ing the year, it is adorned with pho­tos, some of Mary and Jesus, with can­dles, with vas­es of flow­ers and with oth­er objects that have spe­cial mean­ing. But on these two days, Novem­ber 1st and 2nd, the altars become more spe­cif­ic and elab­o­rate. Now, par­tic­u­lar flow­ers, includ­ing the deep red fox­glove and the bright orange and yel­low marigolds, sym­bol­ize this hol­i­day. More pho­tos are added of their loved ones who have passed on. There are plates of the spe­cial egg based bread that are in abun­dance in every mar­ket and more can­dles. Plates of nuts and fruit and spe­cial­ly pre­pared can­dies are there too, as well as a bot­tle of mescal, the tra­di­tion­al drink used to com­mem­o­rate all spe­cial events

In the evening, most of the vil­lage walks to the ceme­tery at the church, as they have been doing for cen­turies. They car­ry flow­ers and can­dles, food and drink, and kneel at the graves of their loved ones, as well as vis­it­ing the graves of their depart­ed friends. It is a shar­ing with the difunc­tos, as they are known in Span­ish, this day when they feel those spir­its have returned to be with them once again. The first day of Los Dias de los Muer­tos is ded­i­cat­ed to the mem­o­ries of the chil­dren. It is the day when they return to their fam­i­lies one more time. The sec­ond day is for all the oth­ers, which ends with the pil­grim­age to the cemetery.

Alta Gracia (Line of the Spirit dyemaker) at her Altar ©John Lamkin
Alta Gra­cia (Line of the Spir­it™ dye­mak­er) at her Altar ©John Lamkin

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In my almost 40 years of liv­ing and work­ing with the weavers and oth­er  Zapotec peo­ple of a small vil­lage out­side of Oax­a­ca, I have always been remind­ed of what­ev­er they do, whether it is cel­e­brat­ing a spe­cial hol­i­day or sim­ply being involved in an exchange of busi­ness, every­thing is infused with the spir­it. Every home, rich or poor, has as the focal point of their home, a care­ful­ly tend­ed altar. The weav­ings that may be piled up on the bench­es along the wall are also infused with this same sense of spir­it. There is no sep­a­ra­tion. It is some­thing that I think is worth remem­ber­ing when we are involved in our own busi­ness trans­ac­tions, that they are not apart from, but part of our every­day lives…..

Susan­na Starr  Octo­ber, 2010 

Cemetery - Day of the Dead ©John Lamkin
Ceme­tery — Day of the Dead ©John Lamkin
Children's Altar - Day of the Dead  ©John Lamkin
Chil­dren’s Altar — Day of the Dead ©John Lamkin
Day of the Dead Celebration - Oaxaca, Mexico - ©John Lamkin
Day of the Dead Cel­e­bra­tion — Oax­a­ca, Mex­i­co — ©John Lamkin