Forty Years! And a visit to the weaving village

Starr's 40th

 

by Susan­na Starr

As I sit here in our home over­look­ing the Hon­do Val­ley  out­side of Taos, New Mex­i­co, with the back­drop of the San­gre de Cristos moun­tains alter­nate­ly shroud­ed in cloud cov­er, I real­ize that I’ve only been home from our annu­al three and a half month stay in Mex­i­co for a cou­ple of weeks.

Just lit­tle more than two weeks ago we were walk­ing the streets of the weav­ing vil­lage where I’ve been work­ing with the same weav­ing fam­i­lies for so many years. As always, it was won­der­ful being there, vis­it­ing with our old friends, who are real­ly the clos­est I have to extend­ed fam­i­ly, and see­ing all the changes in the year since our last visit.

This time John and I arrived with copies of our recent­ly pub­lished book “Our Inter­wo­ven Lives with the Zapotec Weavers: An Odyssey of the Heart” the beau­ti­ful mini-cof­fee table book that my part­ner, John Lamkin, and I col­lab­o­rat­ed on, with my sto­ry and his beau­ti­ful pho­to­graph­ic accompaniment.

 

Susanna shows the book to Eliseo & Maria Bautista
Susan­na shows the book to Eliseo & Maria Bautista

In this day of imme­di­ate elec­tron­ic com­mu­ni­ca­tion, it wasn’t quite the sur­prise we thought it would be since it had already made it’s advance announce­ment on Face­book. But not every­one had heard about it, espe­cial­ly not the Line of the Spir­it weavers. But every­one seemed to be delight­ed with it. Many of the pho­tos brought hap­py smiles of recog­ni­tion but most impor­tant­ly, it was that spe­cial shared feel­ing of know­ing each oth­er, our fam­i­lies and the vil­lage itself over these many years that was so meaningful.

Juan Luis & family
Juan Luis & family

This new book of ours tells the sto­ry not only of my forty years of work­ing with the Zapotec weavers in this vil­lage, but par­al­lels their lives with my own, of the three gen­er­a­tions I’ve been involved with, my own being the first gen­er­a­tion, the chil­dren who are now adults and run­ning the estab­lished busi­ness­es begun by their par­ents, as the sec­ond gen­er­a­tion. All of these fam­i­lies have been and always will be a sig­nif­i­cant part of my life.
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But it’s the third gen­er­a­tion that real­ly excites me, the gen­er­a­tion of my own grand­chil­dren. These younger peo­ple who have already start­ed in on careers of their own such as med­i­cine, or are now at uni­ver­si­ties study­ing engi­neer­ing and inter­na­tion­al com­merce or attend­ing high schools in Oax­a­ca prepar­ing them for unknown pur­suits, are astound­ing. Their grand­par­ents, my old­est friends, were the tran­si­tion­al age, the one that rep­re­sent­ed the shift from the tra­di­tion­al ways of their par­ents and grand­par­ents to being immersed in the con­tem­po­rary world that includ­ed me and a num­ber of oth­er “com­pradores” (buy­ers) like me.

Weavers and Compradores
Weavers and Compradores

They passed the torch to the next gen­er­a­tion who con­tin­ued to build their busi­ness­es and their homes and pro­vide new oppor­tu­ni­ties for advanced edu­ca­tion to their own chil­dren, often shut­tling them back and forth to spe­cial­ized schools in Oax­a­ca on a dai­ly basis, for years, to pro­vide them with the foun­da­tion for cre­at­ing an alter­na­tive to the weav­ing tra­di­tion they had grown up in, to give them oppor­tu­ni­ties to forge their own way and often bring back new skills to the community.

Although these “kids” look like teenagers any­where in the same kind of jeans, tee shirts and sneak­ers with the same cell phones, there is some­thing spe­cial about them. Although very much a part of the 21st cen­tu­ry, they are still deeply steeped in more than 5,000 years of Zapotec cul­ture and tra­di­tion. They have nev­er suf­fered the west­ern “angst” won­der­ing who they are or what their place is. They have always known what their place was and con­tin­ues to be. From the time of their arrival they have been embraced by the strong ties of fam­i­ly and com­mu­ni­ty. They prob­a­bly go through many of the same thoughts and feel­ings of con­tem­po­raries any­where, but they are not lost. They step out into the world joy­ful­ly. And……every one of them that I know is beau­ti­ful, male or female. Every one of them is infused with lov­ing­ness. I know I must be get­ting old when I look at them and feel the tears in my eyes!

Diego Montaño and one of his rugs
Diego Mon­taño and one of his rugs

But not all of these young peo­ple are going on to pur­sue new careers. Many of them have opt­ed to con­tin­ue in the weav­ing tra­di­tion, already being fine weavers in their own right. And many more look for­ward to work­ing at home on the looms that have defined the life of their vil­lage, enjoy­ing the famil­iar tra­di­tion they choose to con­tin­ue, adding new ideas and visions to those they’ve already been exposed to.

Over these past forty years, we’ve spent so much time in the excit­ing city of Oax­a­ca, rich in its cul­ture, vibrant in its col­ors and rich in its cook­ing tra­di­tion (Oax­a­can chefs are some of the most famous in Mex­i­co as well as some from the vil­lage who have received inter­na­tion­al recog­ni­tion) and excit­ing in its atmos­phere. It’s still the excit­ing city it’s always been. But, this time John and I stayed out in the vil­lage with our friends and I still bask in the glow of being there.

Rather than shut­tling back and forth from the city, we enjoyed the qui­et and inti­ma­cy of being in the vil­lage, of walk­ing out at night and say­ing hel­lo to the neigh­bors, of strolling down the main street and not­ing all the new con­struc­tion and remod­el­ing and upgrad­ing that seems to be tak­ing place on every oth­er cor­ner. Many of the old dirt roads have been paved, street lamps light the way and won­der­ful slo­gans urg­ing peo­ple toward think­ing about recy­cling, mutu­al respect for gen­der, women’s rights and oth­er social issues, are writ­ten with artis­tic accom­pa­ni­ments on the walls. The sense of com­mu­ni­ty is pervasive.

There’s so much more to tell about, but I’ll save it for the next install­ment. Right now I can only cel­e­brate still again the rich­ness that has been part of my life through my con­nec­tion with the weav­ing fam­i­lies of this vil­lage. The time has come for me to close this chap­ter of my life, at least the gallery part of it, Starr Inte­ri­ors. I’ve been pro­cess­ing this time for the past few years and now that it has become clear in my mind that the next step for me is to pass the torch to some­one else that will build upon my rela­tion­ship with the weavers, I feel con­tent­ed. I’m quite sure that the right per­son will appear who will weave their own rela­tion­ships into a mean­ing­ful part of their life, find­ing the coun­ter­part of run­ning the gallery in the equal­ly beau­ti­ful moun­tain town of Taos, New Mexico.

 

Arnulfo Mendoza

March 9, 2014

Arnulfo Mendoza
Arnul­fo Mendoza

Today is the day they are bury­ing Arnul­fo Men­doza in the ceme­tery in Teoti­t­lan del Valle, Oax­a­ca, Mex­i­co. I won’t be there, but I know many peo­ple will be there to pay their last respects to one of the most well- known and loved sons of the Zapotec vil­lage known for its many tal­ent­ed weavers. If he had been one of the old­er weavers, it would be sad, but Arnul­fo wasn’t one of them. He was only in his fifties and his prime of life. A tal­ent­ed weaver who brought the art of fine weav­ing up to a com­plete­ly new lev­el and a painter who cre­at­ed his own unique form of art, Arnul­fo was known way beyond the bound­aries of Oax­a­ca, Mex­i­co. It was shock­ing to hear of his pass­ing and he’ll be great­ly mourned by his fam­i­ly, his son, his moth­er, his many sis­ters and broth­ers and their fam­i­lies as well as his many friends. His pass­ing also will be a loss to the impor­tant Mex­i­can art com­mu­ni­ty as well as to all of us who knew and loved him.

I first met Arnul­fo almost four decades ago when we were vis­it­ing with his father, mas­ter weaver don Emil­iano Men­doza. We vis­it­ed with their fam­i­ly often and our con­nec­tion with them is one that I’ve always trea­sured. Grad­u­al­ly, we acquired weav­ings from don Emil­iano and from Arnul­fo, includ­ing fine tapes­tries based on his own orig­i­nal paint­ings. We remained friends for many years. He and his wife at the time, Mary Jane Gag­nier, came to vis­it us at our home on Lagu­na Bacalar as well as in Taos, New Mex­i­co and some years ago, Starr Inte­ri­ors spon­sored an exhi­bi­tion of his work with Mary Jane doing one of her talks. It was a spe­cial occa­sion. We were also guests at their incred­i­ble wed­ding and there short­ly after the arrival of their baby son, Gabriel.

It is with great sad­ness that I write this, some­thing I could nev­er envi­sion doing. When we return to the vil­lage in ear­ly April, there will be no more vis­its with him, but he will cer­tain­ly live on in my mem­o­ry and in my heart as well as in those of my chil­dren, whose friend he was also…..we loved you, Arnulfo…….

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Recent visit to the weaving village

Village women making 'tejate.' Montaño family
Vil­lage women mak­ing ‘tejate.’ Mon­taño fam­i­ly ©John Lamkin

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Here’s a video we shot while we were vis­it­ing the vil­lage. We were very priv­i­leged to be invit­ed to this cel­e­bra­tion by one of our weavers.
More to come on this vis­it soon.

Remembering Richard Enzer — Final Part

Remem­ber­ing Richard Enz­er – Part 3 — Final

by Susan­na Starr

Read Part 1 Read Part 2

The fol­low­ing year, our work sched­ule togeth­er with Richard con­tin­ued and now he was liv­ing in anoth­er house with much more room, while we con­tin­ued liv­ing in the house that would be our Oax­a­ca home for many more years. There were still par­ties and art open­ings and din­ners out at places like El Sol y La Luna which was a restau­rant that fea­tured local musi­cians as well as art exhibits on the adobe walls. Food was served in the indoor cov­ered patio and being with Richard meant being with lots of peo­ple. He always seemed to have the aura of a rock star” and the years we spent togeth­er always seemed filled with ongo­ing adven­ture. Com­plete­ly devot­ed to the work of the Line of the Spir­it, being in the city was anoth­er thing and the cir­cle of friends that we were con­stant­ly involved with was always a col­or­ful one.

Richard Enzer & Susanna Starr in Starr Interior's Courtyard, Taos, New Mexico
Richard Enz­er & Susan­na Starr in Starr Inte­ri­or’s Court­yard, Taos, New Mexico

It was dur­ing these years that we formed the last­ing friend­ship with Mitzi Linn who was Richard’s “spir­i­tu­al advis­er.” It was also then that we were intro­duced to Domeni­co and his friend, both of them fair­ly recent­ly arrived from Italy. They cooked fab­u­lous pas­ta din­ners at Richard’s house, a pre­lude to the restau­rants that Domeni­co would own and oper­ate after he mar­ried a local Oax­a­ca girl, as beau­ti­ful as he was hand­some. Domeni­co is now the own­er of Piz­za Rus­ti­ca, a won­der­ful and well known restau­rant housed in one of the old con­vert­ed Oax­a­ca mansions.
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Miri­am got mar­ried to an archi­tect that she met through the Line of the Spir­it and left to raise a fam­i­ly. Abi took her place and I work with her still. She is my very close friend. Although Ser­gio moved on, we now have anoth­er art direc­tor who was just a child when we began work­ing togeth­er with Richard. Jace is Alta Gracia’s son, which makes it very con­ve­nient since he’s work­ing direct­ly with his moth­er, our extra­or­di­nary dye-mak­er. He and his fam­i­ly are all still very involved in pro­duc­ing spe­cial pieces for the Line of the Spir­it and Alta’s gar­dens are as mag­nif­i­cent as the col­ors she pro­duces for the yarns that hang out to dry in the strong Mex­i­can sunlight.

About five years ago we decid­ed to change the name of our gallery from La Uni­ca Cosa which we had for about thir­ty years, to our new name of Starr Inte­ri­ors. We had a par­ty to cel­e­brate and much to my sur­prise and great plea­sure Richard came. I cried, stirred by an emo­tion I didn’t know I had. He had been sick, I knew, and had sur­vived a kid­ney trans­plant. He looked old­er, but so did I. I flashed back to one of the first open­ings we had for the Line of the Spir­it short­ly after we formed our part­ner­ship. Richard bought me a very spe­cial huip­il from one of the sev­en regions of Oax­a­ca which I wore to that open­ing. It had been a num­ber of years since we had seen each oth­er, with Richard mov­ing onto the Roman­ian project after our part­ner­ship end­ed, and my con­tin­u­ing with the Oax­a­ca project. It was emo­tion­al for both of us and his smile was a reminder of many times we had work­ing togeth­er in those ear­ly years of the nine­teen nineties.

I think, too, of the time when the tele­phone rang one evening and it was Richard. I knew imme­di­ate­ly from his voice that some­thing had hap­pened but wasn’t pre­pared for the news that his son, Michael, had just been killed in a motor­cy­cle acci­dent. Michael was spend­ing time with his Dad in Oax­a­ca and it was Richard’s hope that his involve­ment would con­tin­ue. But that was not to be. It was a dev­as­ta­tion that only a par­ent could know. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, I knew from first­hand expe­ri­ence, hav­ing lost my own son, when he was younger than Michael, a num­ber of years earlier.

Now Richard, too, is gone, hav­ing passed away last year. Hard liv­ing took a toll, I’m sure, but it was the kind of life he chose and I think he enjoyed it “to the max.” There were dif­fi­cult moments but they always passed and what­ev­er hap­pened that appeared dis­rup­tive was always resolved. But his genius lives on in the con­tin­u­a­tion and flour­ish­ing of the Line of the Spir­it. Short­ly after we became part­ners, I rec­og­nized the need for a trade­mark which remains the iden­ti­fi­ca­tion for this stun­ning body of work. Although I have gone on to intro­duce some designs and col­ors of my own, the col­lec­tion still retains his ini­tial vision.

Alta con­tin­ues to do her mag­ic with mak­ing the col­ors. Abi con­tin­ues to keep every­thing togeth­er in Oax­a­ca, Jace con­tin­ues to vis­it each weaver on the project and sup­ply them with the mate­r­i­al they need to com­plete their indi­vid­ual pieces and the fine staff at Starr Inte­ri­ors con­tin­ues to present the Line of the Spir­it col­lec­tion in the three rooms that house the col­lec­tion. We con­tin­ue to use the hand-card­ed, hand- spun wools pre­pared on a drop spin­dle at a remote Zapotec Indi­an vil­lage high up in the moun­tains. How can I men­tion that vil­lage with­out men­tion­ing their oth­er claim to fame, the mak­ing of mescal in home-made stills. Which brings up the mem­o­ries of going there with Richard to buy wool and sam­pling each of the offer­ings of spe­cial mescal from the var­i­ous hous­es in that lit­tle vil­lage. What an adven­ture! That, too, is part of remem­ber­ing Richard.

Remembering Richard Enzer

Remem­ber­ing Richard Enz­er — Part 1

by Susan­na Starr

Richard Enzer in Zapotec Weaving Village
Richard Enz­er in Zapotec Weav­ing Village

Every­one has moments in their lives that seem incon­se­quen­tial at the time but, in ret­ro­spect, we can rec­og­nize the impact of that chance meet­ing or conversation.

It was an out­door par­ty held at Ellie’s house, just down the road from where I lived in the small val­ley of Valdez, just out­side of Taos, New Mex­i­co, that Richard Enz­er rode into my life. I had been stum­bling around in the woods, try­ing to get back to where most of the peo­ple were gath­ered in the open area around the house, unable to find my way through the dense veg­e­ta­tion. I was begin­ning to feel panicky.

At the moment I start­ed to emerge into the warm sun­light, Richard got down from the horse he had been rid­ing and, see­ing my face, strode over and opened his arms to hold me. There were no words exchanged, just the com­fort and secu­ri­ty offered in that reas­sur­ing embrace, one per­son to anoth­er. For me, it was a defin­ing moment and despite the var­i­ous expe­ri­ences we shared in the ensu­ing years, that ges­ture of kind­ness and recog­ni­tion remained.

We each wan­dered off in dif­fer­ent direc­tions then at the par­ty and dur­ing the fol­low­ing years. Liv­ing in a small town, I heard about him from time to time but it wasn’t until a num­ber of years lat­er that he reap­peared in my life.
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My part­ner and I had spent more than a dozen years build­ing a busi­ness that involved our active par­tic­i­pa­tion in a small Zapotec Indi­an weav­ing vil­lage locat­ed in the moun­tains just out­side of Oax­a­ca, Mex­i­co. As the years passed, our busi­ness grew as did that of the peo­ple we worked with. We worked sev­en days a week and spent sev­er­al months in Mex­i­co every win­ter work­ing with the weavers and build­ing what devel­oped into a small eco resort and retreat cen­ter in anoth­er part of the coun­try, the Yucatan Penin­su­la of Mexico.

Dur­ing the years of the 1980’s, we were buy­ing large quan­ti­ties of beau­ti­ful hand-loomed rugs and wall hang­ings, care­ful­ly select­ing each piece. We were receiv­ing ship­ments reg­u­lar­ly and had our own “bode­ga” or stor­age area. Here our extra inven­to­ry was care­ful­ly stacked and laid out. Ship­ments that were received at the shop were tak­en there to be unpacked, exam­ined and admired again before putting them in their prop­er places.

It was on one of these occa­sions that we were unpack­ing a ship­ment, that we real­ized the rugs were not famil­iar to us. They were stun­ning­ly beau­ti­ful in deep rich tones of com­plex designs. It didn’t take us long to real­ize that they were Richard’s rugs that had been sent to us by mistake.

Although we hadn’t been in touch with him, we knew that Richard had been work­ing in the same weav­ing vil­lage that we were, after a long absence from Taos, and design­ing his own rugs there. With the help of not­ed weaver and col­orist, Rachel Brown of Taos, New Mex­i­co, he devel­oped a palette of deep, rich col­ors more rem­i­nis­cent of fine ori­en­tal rugs than the col­ors and designs being used in the small Zapotec Indi­an village.

His expe­ri­ence work­ing with the New York rug gallery, the Gor­dian Knot, expand­ed his design hori­zons with ori­en­tal design ele­ments includ­ed in his own col­lec­tion of South­west­ern designs, which he called the Line of the Spir­it. We hadn’t ever seen any of his col­lec­tion but it was clear as we unfold­ed the pieces that day in our bode­ga, that Richard had gone far beyond any­thing being pro­duced in the vil­lage and, with good rea­son, we were very impressed.

Track­ing him down wasn’t dif­fi­cult and we sent the ship­ment on to him. Not long after, he sug­gest­ed that we look once again at some of his pieces with the idea of our pur­chas­ing them. We did and found it a per­fect addi­tion to our own fine col­lec­tion at what was then known as La Uni­ca Cosa (the only thing), now Starr Inte­ri­ors. We loved the rugs and our cus­tomers respond­ed to our enthu­si­asm and were soon buy­ing from Richard on a reg­u­lar basis.

It wasn’t very long after­ward that Richard showed up at the shop one day with his art direc­tor from the vil­lage to lay out a propo­si­tion. What came of that dis­cus­sion was the begin­ning of my long involve­ment with the Line of the Spir­it, which con­tin­ues to this day.

Day of the Dead — Dias de los Muertos — Oaxaca, Mexico

Altar, Cemetery Chapel - Day of the Dead - Oaxaca State, Mexico
Susan­na Starr plac­ing pho­to on Altar, Ceme­tery Chapel — Day of the Dead — Oax­a­ca State, Mex­i­co ©John Lamkin 

The Day of the Dead cel­e­bra­tion is marked by var­i­ous rit­u­als, includ­ing the Amer­i­can Hal­loween. But in Oax­a­ca this hol­i­day, known as Los Dias de los Muer­tos, is some­thing that goes far beyond trick or treat­ing and chil­dren in cos­tumes. It is not marked by carved pump­kins and chil­dren gar­ner­ing as much can­dy as can fill their bags.

Rather, it is a holy hol­i­day, one that marks the cel­e­bra­tion of those who have passed away, death being part of life. Fur­ther, it is an hon­or­ing of those who once were part of their lives, a day of remem­brance. It is a day infused with a feel­ing of spir­it. Yes, there are parades, such as the large on in Mit­la with all kinds of flam­boy­ant cos­tumes, and major dec­o­ra­tions in the large ceme­ter­ies, but the most impor­tant acknowl­edg­ment of this holy hol­i­day takes place at the indi­vid­ual altars in each home.

For the Zapotec peo­ple, the altar is the focal point in their home. All dur­ing the year, it is adorned with pho­tos, some of Mary and Jesus, with can­dles, with vas­es of flow­ers and with oth­er objects that have spe­cial mean­ing. But on these two days, Novem­ber 1st and 2nd, the altars become more spe­cif­ic and elab­o­rate. Now, par­tic­u­lar flow­ers, includ­ing the deep red fox­glove and the bright orange and yel­low marigolds, sym­bol­ize this hol­i­day. More pho­tos are added of their loved ones who have passed on. There are plates of the spe­cial egg based bread that are in abun­dance in every mar­ket and more can­dles. Plates of nuts and fruit and spe­cial­ly pre­pared can­dies are there too, as well as a bot­tle of mescal, the tra­di­tion­al drink used to com­mem­o­rate all spe­cial events

In the evening, most of the vil­lage walks to the ceme­tery at the church, as they have been doing for cen­turies. They car­ry flow­ers and can­dles, food and drink, and kneel at the graves of their loved ones, as well as vis­it­ing the graves of their depart­ed friends. It is a shar­ing with the difunc­tos, as they are known in Span­ish, this day when they feel those spir­its have returned to be with them once again. The first day of Los Dias de los Muer­tos is ded­i­cat­ed to the mem­o­ries of the chil­dren. It is the day when they return to their fam­i­lies one more time. The sec­ond day is for all the oth­ers, which ends with the pil­grim­age to the cemetery.

Alta Gracia (Line of the Spirit dyemaker) at her Altar ©John Lamkin
Alta Gra­cia (Line of the Spir­it™ dye­mak­er) at her Altar ©John Lamkin

These pre­cau­tions would ensure you to overnight via­gra online find the right one. Accord­ing to recent report of Nation­al Health silde­nafil 100mg Insti­tute, about half of males over 70 have prob­lem keep­ing erec­tion and thus they lack the abil­i­ty to get an erec­tion. Silde­nafil Cit­rate which is a major com­po­nent of the drug then got cer­ti­fied as the best and online cialis the most reli­able solu­tion to deal with erec­tile dis­sat­is­fac­tion. Ear­ly ejac­u­la­tion Med­ical­ly known via­gra cheap no pre­scrip­tion as pre­ma­ture ejac­u­la­tion, erec­tile dys­func­tion, penis shrink­age and low sex desire. 
In my almost 40 years of liv­ing and work­ing with the weavers and oth­er  Zapotec peo­ple of a small vil­lage out­side of Oax­a­ca, I have always been remind­ed of what­ev­er they do, whether it is cel­e­brat­ing a spe­cial hol­i­day or sim­ply being involved in an exchange of busi­ness, every­thing is infused with the spir­it. Every home, rich or poor, has as the focal point of their home, a care­ful­ly tend­ed altar. The weav­ings that may be piled up on the bench­es along the wall are also infused with this same sense of spir­it. There is no sep­a­ra­tion. It is some­thing that I think is worth remem­ber­ing when we are involved in our own busi­ness trans­ac­tions, that they are not apart from, but part of our every­day lives…..

Susan­na Starr  Octo­ber, 2010 

Cemetery - Day of the Dead ©John Lamkin
Ceme­tery — Day of the Dead ©John Lamkin
Children's Altar - Day of the Dead  ©John Lamkin
Chil­dren’s Altar — Day of the Dead ©John Lamkin
Day of the Dead Celebration - Oaxaca, Mexico - ©John Lamkin
Day of the Dead Cel­e­bra­tion — Oax­a­ca, Mex­i­co — ©John Lamkin